|
By Bryan Duckett
See
his post at the PhotogForum (He's put together a great tutorial!)
By Alycia
this is the "digital version" that i am using...(not
film)
what i do is put the baby on the white bg...i put the softbox
very close and use both umbrella fill and reflector also very
close and then i overexpose by 1-2 stops...being careful not
to blow it out, but just make it *bright*. i prefer the baby
with no shirt.
i then convert the image to b/w (regular *tone*). most of
the work is then done by adjusting curves and then adding a tad
of brightness and contrast.
i make a snapshot of that image, then apply unsharpen mask
about 500 and make a snapshot of that too. i use the sharpened
version as the "history brush" snapshot and then go
back to the unsharpened version and brush in about 50-75% opacity
into the eyes and lips to bring them out.
i then use the dodge tool set at about 300size and 100% and
create the vignette all around the top and bottom. I may lower
the % to about 50 and do a light over the hair, esp if it is
dark.
i will look at it to see if it might need a little more brightness
or curves.
i then go into filter: texture and add about 15-20 softgrain
at 50% contrast.
hope i remembered everything i do :)
okay...i'm swamped. better get to work *S*
Alycia
www.photographybyalycia.com
By Jen (aka: BabyCakes)
Here is the way I do it ...
Open Image in PS
Convert to B & W using Channel Mixer (NC)
Using the vignetted action, I create a circle, so I can get a
vignetted look *run this action* if you dont have the vignetted
action, use the dodge tool, midtones, 100% opacity to create
a vignetted look. I've noticed with dark clothing it maybe hard
to get rid of it, so I will then use the eraser, at like 50%
opacity to get rid of anything i need to.
I then play with the curves to lighten the image until all I
really see is the eyes.
Duplicate image, use the unsharp mask filter at 300,1,0 *settings*
Then using the eraser, erase over the subject at 100% opacity,
but dont touch the eyes (leave them sharp).
Flatten image
After that I usually go too brightness & contrast, and up
it a little until it looks right. (need to just play here, and
judge it by your eye to what you like)
After that I use the burn tool, 30-40% opacity and go around
the eyes.. *outside of eye* to darken the ring.. i also darken
the pupil. I also use this tool to fill in some shadows around
the neck, or wherever. Sometimes on the hair a tad.
Then, if they've got "light" colored eyes.. i'll use
the dodge(highlights) tool at like 20% opacity, and go over the
eyes a little (to make them pop out)...
I may add some grain, not sure i like that effect, but if you
want to, go to Filter texture grain..and use the soft grain,
and a low percentage (i like 15-20)
That's about it :)
Just play play play
Jen
www.babycakesphotography.net
By Gerry Coe
I know a lot of you have been asking for details, so here
they are. They really only relate to Analogue Photographers.
The Digital crowd are doing really well with their own techniques.
I would be interested in any Digital Photographer to show examples
of this style, shot my way but without the initial over exposure,
as I do not think it will be necessary.
Gerry
HOW DO I DO MY PENCIL PORTRAITS?
What I am about to tell you will only be good as a starting
point, as everyone’s methods will be different.
I use Agfa APX 100 as my standard film; I have also been able
to achieve results with T Max 100. But I was not quite so happy
with the prints I produced.
I develop the film in Agfa Rodinal. The dilution works out at
20ml of Dev to 480 of water for 1 120 film. I normally put 2
rolls of 120 on one spiral and then use 25ml of Dev. to 475 of
water.
The time is 6 mins. @ 20 C I agitate for the first 30 secs and
then once every minute.
The negs should be heavy but not bulletproof.
I make all the prints onto Kentmere Document Art, GR2, a single
weight paper. Although Kentmere Art Classic is also very acceptable.
Any Fine Art paper with texture should work fine.
Taking the pictures is very simple. I use a standard lighting
set up for High Key.
2 Softboxes either side of the sitter approx 3ft away. The centre
of the box should be just above eye level and pointing down slightly.
Underneath the sitter but just out of shot is a silver reflector.
On the background are 2 lights.
The readings in my studio should read approx, for the main lights
f32 but I set the camera aperture to f8. The background lights
should be at least 1 stop brighter but no more than 2 stops or
else they will become the main light source.
From now onwards it is up to you to experiment and see what
the results are like.
One thing is not to make the prints too dark, print them very
light; there is a certain amount of dry down on these papers.
www.gerrycoe.co.uk
|
